Shaky at stop lights

[Just visiting]

Or it could be the torque convertor not releasing. I keep hearing that I can cut the TCC wire, which some say is "tan" but the books call out Tan/Black, and stop the vibration without having a harmfull effect on the trans.

However, no one wants to say exactally where the "tan" wire is connected to the bellhousing/tranmission. The only tan wire I see is a gounded wire that is connected to the bolt holding the bellhousing, locatio0n is directly below the EGR valve on the 1994 2.2 engine.

It would really help is people would state exactally where a wire is located if cutting the wire is supposed to help cure the problem!

[politeios]

I'm not sure what source you have for the tranny wires but I'd be pretty careful about messing with them Have you changed your tranny fluid in the last long while?

As for me below, I had my motor mounts replaced and it turns out that was the problem

[Just visiting]

Originally Posted by politeios

I'm not sure what source you have for the tranny wires but I'd be pretty careful about messing with them Have you changed your tranny fluid in the last long while?

As for me below, I had my motor mounts replaced and it turns out that was the problem

reply:

My source was:

#1 Several people on this board who had experiemced the same problem and gave me the "wiring" info,

#2 A GM service writer,

#3 And, after I began noticing the same physical problem of several city buses (i.e. shaking when in gear but the vehicle was not moving) the advice from one of the city's bus mechanics. (I've noticed several fire engines display the same vibration and was told by the crew the vehicle was scheduled for "transmission repairs".)

I am not saying the motor mounts are not the "'problem", BUT it is a fact that automatic tranmissions with electric controled torque convertor lock up features share the ("vibration") description given in this topic when the convertor fails to unlock and "stall" as per design.

There is no reason for the convertor to be locked when the vehicle is running, in gear, and not moving (i.e. convertor stalled). That would be the same as a manual trans with a clutch that won't release when the car was stopped. It's just that the automatic trans has the ability to slip under this condition and a manual can't.

Clear as mud?

[politeios]

Hi -- I've noticed that when I'm at a stop sign, more often than not my car will vibrate -- not a huge amount but enough to be noticed and annoying.

But if I put the car into Park or Neutral, the car stops shaking.

I've searched around any can't find anything. Any ideas?

[ten0ratharidechevy]

dog bone motor mount.... lower motor mount to be exact.... i would try that... do this pop your hood and have someone start it up look at your engine is it "rocking" while in park, then have them push the brakes and put it in drive, does the rocking stop, if all that happens change the lower motor mount... and go with a solid mount itll last alot longer then a stock one...

[jskaggs93]

i was also wondering about this. my motor shakes all over rofl. lower motor mount. gotta check that.

[politeios]

Thanks, I'll look into that

[PurpleZ24]

Hmm, that's weird, I just replaced my lower motor mount with a "dog bone" because the motor would flop around when I did the foot-on-brake-put-in-gear test, after that, my car started shaking insanely at stop lights/signs...

I also replaced the upper mount and added the insert.

When you turn on the A/C the shake is even worse.

This is a 2001 2.4L Cav.

Is there any way to up the idle a bit? Or does that need to be programatically done in the ECU?

We are idling at around 600 - 700RPM.

Any ideas?

TIA

[Just visiting]

TCC, TCC, TCC, TCC...

Stop the vehicle on a known level spot, it into netural while holding down the brake pedal. After about 30 release the brake and the car sits still...

Put foot on brake and shift into Drive holding brake for at least 30 seconds. Slowly release the brakes:

If the torque convertor is not releasing the car will quickly start rolling, if the torque convertor is releasing the car may or may not start rolling SLOWLY.

Having started to work on my first GM product since I started driving/working on cars back in 1960 I will say that GM did one sorry job when calling out the specs on their electronic parts. Blower moter switches that won't last 12 years? Temp control senors that won't last five years? Torque Convertor Controls that simply don't hold up for any amount of time?

GM most have planned on getting rich by selling replacement Calavier parts.

[PurpleZ24]

So your saying replace the TCC?

Any advice on finding one, possibly just check Napa?

Thanks for the input, much appreciated.